Saturday, 29 June 2019

Walrus photo essay


Walrus!


The Walrus (Odobenus rosmarus) is a large flipper-ed marine mammal, with a discontinuous Arctic distribution. There are two populations in the Pacific & Atlantic Oceans. The animals around Svalbad are of the smaller Atlantic race O.R. rosmarus. 

These males are resting on shore.



This Atlantic population of Walrus is much smaller in numbers than the Pacific one. This race ranges across Arctic Canada, Greenland, Svalbad & western Arctic Russia. The Svalbad population breeds then the females & young move eastwards to the edge of the pack ice. All the above photographs are of males in western Svalbad.

These animals were just playing in the shallows.



Walruses can live to up to 30 years old, the males becoming sexually mature at around seven years old but are often prevented from mating by older males. Many males are 15 years old before they mate for the first time. females come into season around six years old.




The tusks are elongated canines & are present in both sexes. The tusks on males tend to be larger, growing up to a metre in length & weighing up to 5.4 kgs. They are used for fighting in dominance & display.



Surrounding the tusks are a mat of stiff bristles which are very sensitive & used for foraging on the ocean floor.



Their blubber can be up to 15cm thick & as animals get older they get paler, some very old males appearing almost pink!



These animals were rubbing their skin
 along pebbly portions of the shallow bay.








Walrus are easily affected by noise & disturbance
 by humans. Stampedes occur regularly.


Atlantic Walrus rest on shore, rather than 
on the pack ice itself.




Numbers of Walrus were greatly reduced by over hunting in the last century. Populations are slowly recovering but the Svalbad population is only around 2,500 animals. The greatest threat to Walrus today is climate change.

Billefjordena & Skansbukta

Early dawn light on our last day.


GPS: 78, 39.6N  016, 45,4 E


The light just got better & better!

Entering Billefjorden

9th June, the last day of this wonderful trip. The weather was glorious, with bright sunshine & very blue skies. What a change from earlier in the voyage!

The light was truly incredible 
& I couldn't stop taking photos!


Both morphs of Fulmar
were around the ship.



A very happy chappy!



A happy chapess!


My first sighting of Belugas!


There were at least 50 of them, 
feeding close to the edge of the ice.




It was difficult to get photos, as looking
 straight into very strong light.




They look yellow in this light.




Very difficult to see much of them, 
as always underwater.




Soon there was a shout of Belugas! This was one of my most wanted mammals to see. So a quick dash on deck (it was 5 am in the morning) & there they were. Unfortunately they were in shallow water very close to the ice & to shore, so we couldn't get very close.

Just a snapshot of the incredible scenery
 surrounding us.




Still ice here, quite close to Longybaren.

One doesn't know which way to look!


And then this was spotted!


Another Polar Bear!




Constantly sniffing for possible food.


Incredible animal in a dramatic setting.


Slowly it came a little closer to the ship.


Still around 500 m away.






Getting closer!


It smelt us & then started slowly
 to angle away from the ship.








Nordenskiold Glacier


This was happening right in front of the Nordenskiold Glacier, an amazing sight in itself, but for once largely ignored!


It then made its way back to the edge of the ice
 & open sea.


Little did we know what was going to happen next!


It started to look into the water.






I missed the moment it dived in!


It was definitely interested in the Belugas


Swimming with them & frequently looking
 underwater as they swam by.


It didn't really have a chance, as the whales 
were far too speedy.


Entertaining though!








It eventually hauled itself out on to the ice.



We watched this bear for around two hours before it walked further & further away & we sailed further in to Petuniabukta Bay. However, we soon spotted yet another bear.

A stunning place.

Just to give you an idea of the scale of the 
landscape in relation to the bear!








It walked further & further away.
There is a bear in this photo!

Heavily cropped just to prove it!

Ivory Gull

Arctic Tern



Bearded Seal, I almost missed it
 because of the Polar Bear!

In the calm conditions all the Northern Fulmars 
were just loafing on the ice.

Pyramiden

Pyramiden is a Russian town, that was established to mine coal. Today however it is a bit of a ghost town, although one can stay there overnight as there is still a hotel.

One can still see the coal piled high
 on the left of the photo.

The scenery was awesome as we sailed past
 the long lost town.


Lots of Brunnich's Guillemot were on 
the edge of the ice.

Brunnich's with one Little Auk

Brunnich's Guillemot

Little Auk

Black Guillemot

Our ship at Skansbukta

Dramatic, if slightly unwelcoming scenery!

Still ice around here.

A relic from the past!

Barnacle Goose






Pink footed Goose

Purple Sandpiper

Around 170 were newly arrived in the bay.



We enjoyed lunch while dashing occasionally outside to view the incredibly scenery passing us by. But once we got the zodiacs out for our landing it clouded over & went suddenly incredibly cold! We didn't see Skansbukta in the best possible light, it was freezing & the wind was very keen.

Our landing site.


Delana & I spotted this as we landed,
 but decided to keep it quiet!

There were high cliffs rising up close to the beach.

Svalbad Reindeer




Black Guillemot

Delana



Found a bit of reindeer!

I presume it died of natural causes?

Just had to have a snack!

Arctic Skua


One of my all time favourite birds.



Arctic Tern






Snow Bunting

A superb male in summer plumage



To be honest, this was the only disappointing land of the entire trip. Birds & animals were scarce & the weather had turned against us. There were Northern Fulmars nesting high on the cliffs & several Svalbad Reindeer. There were a few Black Guillemots feeding close inshore, but that was about it!

A mixed flock of Eiders.

There were six King Eiders in the larger flock.




What a place!




Glaucous Gull


The evening was spent sailing through the northern part of Isfjorden & once again the weather was brilliant (once we were back on board)!

Best birds:

Northern Fulmar 2,000, Pink footed Goose 3, Barnacle Goose 2, Common Eider 65, King Eider 6, Purple Sandpiper 170, Arctic Skua 1, Great Skua 2, Glaucous Gull 55, Kittiwake 400, Ivory Gull 1, 
Arctic Tern 45, Brunnich's Guillemot 500, Black Guillemot 100, Little Auk 50, Puffin 5, Snow Bunting 1.

Mammals:

Beluga 50, Bearded Seal 2, Ringed Seal 1, Polar Bear 2, Svalbad Reindeer 25.

This has been an amazing trip! The Plancius is a superb ship for this kind of expedition travel, very comfortable, with an amazing observation lounge. Svalbad is not rich in species, but it is an incredible destination for scenery & the mammals. Bird life is limited, but there are some incredible species & amazing sights. On this trip we were lucky in meeting some like-minded souls, which just added to our enjoyment.