Thursday 30 May 2019

Svalbad!

We flew into Oslo from Manchester on 30th May. We had a bad start, as no trains running because of someone threatening to commit suicide on the tracks! Had to get an expensive taxi to Manchester. The flight was uneventful & we arrived to a grey late afternoon in Oslo. After an overnight stay, we were on our way on the flight north. The last 30 minutes were spectacular, as we flew over amazing snow covered mountains & deep fjords.

I am finally here in Svalbad!

It is a long way from everywhere!

First views of the town.

A bit untidy, but the surroundings are spectacular!


The Polar Hotel, our home for the next three nights.




Some interesting facts.


This was in the town!


Barnacle Goose


Common: it takes a bit of getting used to 
to see this species in the town & flying 
high up in mountains!



Right in the town!


A few Pink footed Goose were 
in the town as well.


They were feeding on any open patch of ground.

Despite the sign, there are only two roads!


Snow Bunting singing around the town.

Just in case you don't know where we are!


Still a lot of ice in the sea & along the coast.




Fulmar


Most individuals here are of the darker
 blue morph.


Male Common Eider


Male & female






Arctic Skua

A pair were on territory very close to town.





Purple Sandpiper






Snow Bunting


Nice to see them in full summer plumage.



The dog kennels.

We were too early to check into our hotel, so went on a walk around the town. Despite the chilly wind, it was very enjoyable & we walked to the dog kennels & back.

Best birds:

25 Barnacle Goose; 40 Pink footed Goose; 100+ Common Eider; 5 King Eider (four males & a female); 10 Fulmar; 25 Kittiwake; 10 Glaucous Gull; 3 Arctic Skua; 2 Purple Sandpiper; 4 Snow Bunting. 

Also saw 3 very distant Svalbad Reindeer. Hope for closer views tomorrow.

The docks.

Still lots of ice around the shore.


It looks kind of surreal!





Already paired up & looking settled.







Black Guillemot


Feeding in the docks.


Small numbers breeding on the cliffs
 opposite the docks.


Along the edge of the sea we found
 a pair of Grey Phalarope.


Female


Whow!


This pair was the only birds were saw on the trip!
We were a touch too early.


The alternative name is of course Red Phalarope.


Male.


It was superb seeing this species so close
 & in full summer plumage.


Purple Sandpiper


Nice to see this species in summer plumage as well.

The camp site!


Seen better!

Hot showers inside! You will need them!


This is as far as one can go 
without a gun!

The area was just starting to melt
 from winter snows.


Pale bellied Brent Goose


These birds had just arrived 
on their breeding grounds.


Glaucous Gull

Kittiwake

All the ponds were still frozen, 
so not many species present.

1st summer bird.

Common Eiders were found all along the coast.

Female

Purple Sandpiper


This individual had been colour ringed.


It is 1st June & today we walked along the coast, past the airport to the camping site & the large lake, which was unfortunately still frozen! The wind was very cold & at times it was a testing walk with constant battering from the wind.

Best birds:

Northern Fulmar 7; Pink footed Goose 13; Barnacle Goose 30; Pale bellied Brent Goose 185; Common Eider 120; Long tailed Duck 5; Ringed Plover 2; Purple Sandpiper 35; Grey Phalarope 2; Arctic Skua 2; Glaucous Gull 14; Kittiwake 23; Brunnich's Guillemot 35; Black Guillemot 10 & Snow Bunting 25.

My new friend!

Later that evening it was the champions league Final Spurs versus Liverpool. We had a great night in the pub, but my team lost!






Common Eiders & Barnacle Goose

Still looks pretty wintery!







Many males calling & already paired up.





A very pale female.

The dog kennels. Eiders nest here to gain protection
 from the dogs against Arctic Foxes.

Wonderful Huskies.

The local transport!

A pair of Common Eider flying over the ice.



Arctic Skua






In the afternoon I had a walk to the dog kennels again. The weather was much improved & it was a great walk. Many of the same species seen as before including great views of Common Eider at the colony & Arctic Skua.

Looking back down the valley towards the town.

The road had been cleared of snow.

If you look carefully, those little specks
 in the sky are Little Auks.

A Husky only specialist?

And it was open!

I know my place!


One of the old mines, high up on the mountain.

Mine shaft.

We set out early on 2nd June to walk inland down the valley where all the coal mining had taken place over the last 100 years. Weather was great, no wind at all which made for very pleasant walking conditions. Birds were thin on the ground but on the high cliffs with no snow thousands of Little Auks were circling & some landing, but too far away for any meaningful photos. A few Glaucous Gulls were up there as well & incredibly quite a few Barnacle Geese! All these species nest in these inhospitable places because of the threat of predation by Arctic Fox.

Svalbad Reindeer

This is a specific race, with much shorter legs
 than normal.

Digging for lichens under the snow.


We also had great views of seven Svalbad Reindeer.

Snow Bunting

Superb male in breeding plumage.

Female.

Snow Buntings were plentiful & we saw 4 Ptarmigan, but all were quite far away & still in full winter plumage (only one bird was just beginning to get some summer plumage). It was a lovely morning out amid grand surroundings. We then headed back to the hotel for any hour before venturing out in the afternoon to the area close to the bird observatory.

The road out of town.


Delana



Outside the Bird Observatory.

This is the view!



Looking out over the delta.

A bit of a clue!

Cheers!

Pale bellied Brent Goose



Glaucous Gull

Arctic Skua



Walked to the dog kennels, a little overcast & cold at first but soon the sun came out & then it was only minus five degrees Celsius! Bliss! Spent a while photographing a pair of Arctic Skuas, no Ivory Gull though! Then visited the bird observatory & with the help of my scope, saw a great variety of species:

4 King Eider; 200+ Common Eider; 2 Long tailed Duck; 45 Pale bellied Brent Goose; 40 Barnacle Goose; 2 Pink footed Goose; 100+ Glaucous Gull; 30 Kittiwake; 3 Brunnich's Guillemot; 10 Black Guillemot; 350+ Purple Sandpiper; 5 Dunlin & 6 Ringed Plover.

Svalbad Reindeer

We saw eight this morning.

Svalbad Ptarmigan

This is a distinct race, only found here.

Pink footed Goose

These birds had just arrived & setting up territory.


This bird was sitting tight, but no nest yet made.

Barnacle Goose


Arctic Skua



Male Snow Bunting singing on 
old mining machinery.

On 3rd June up early & walked up the valley again to try & photograph Ptarmigan. It was great weather, but nothing much seen! Came back for breakfast in the hotel & then we walked back up the valley again & it worked! Many more birds around! Two Ptarmigan seen well & importantly photographed! 3 Arctic Skuas flew over, lots of both Barnacle & Pink footed Geese & plenty of Snow Buntings setting up territory. 

The beer here is first class.

Cheers!

Had a beer in the Funken Lodge before returning to Radisson Blu & getting a taxi to the ship. The first part of our trip was over & it had been great, but lots still to look forward to!