Thursday 30 November 2023

Karoo National Park

 We left Pretoria just after 6 am on 29th November for our long drive south down the N1 to Beaufort West. It is a long journey of 1,024 kilometers. We were held up in local traffic in Jo'berg & then again by massive road works, which meant we didn't get to our destination until 5.45 pm. 

The place was called Steenbokie Private Nature Reserve, which is a few kilometers outside of the town. Our chalet for the next two nights was a converted stable block & very comfortable it was to. 

There was a nice outside area for outdoor dining.

Karoo Robin Chat

Common around the chalet.

After a nice evening outside we retired to bed for our day in the Karoo National Park in the morning.

Karoo National Park: an arid & very open area.

We enjoyed wonderful weather, 
although it did get very hot!


Verreaux's Eagle

We hadn't seen this species for well over a year.

Up at 5am on on 30th November. It was a lovely clear summers day, with promise of heat later in the day which did materialize! From reception we drove slowly up Klipspringer's Pass. The area is very scenic & we drove slowly stopping regularly along the way.

Cape Mountain Zebra we doted over the hillsides.

Once close to extinction, this species can now be 
found over several national parks.

Kudu was quite common in this portion of the park.


Mountain Reedbuck

Red Hartebeest

Karoo Long-billed Lark

The song was a common sound 
in the early morning.


Lark-like Bunting.

Short-toed Rock Thrush


We enjoyed some nice birding, seeing species that we hadn't seen in quite a while.


As we drove northwards, the vistas
 became even more dramatic.



Before this area was a national park, it was a series of large sheep farms & Hyenas were considered vermin, to be exterminated, as they took sheep & their lambs as prey. Some of these traps have been preserved & are now of historical interest.



Common Ostrich

Immature Mountain Wheatear


Rufous-eared Warbler


Cape Bunting

In the dry river valleys the vegetation is quite thick.

Namaqua Dove

Fiscal Flycatcher

Quite common in the thicker vegetated valleys.

Cape Bunting

Layard's Warbler

Southern Rock Agama

Perched atop bushes not rocks!

We were only in the park for one day, so just explored the central circuit. We didn't have time to drive to the western areas, which are very good for birds. The Karoo National Park is a lovely area to explore. One probably needs around three days to do the place justice. Both of us enjoyed our time here & look forward to returning with our new Mobi Lodge off-road caravan!






















Saturday 18 November 2023

Serenity Mountain & Forest Lodge

 It was Delana's idea to come here & what a good idea it proved to be! We left Malelane mid-afternoon on 16th November winding our way up into the nearby hills. At first we passed through agricultural land but after 12 kilometers the road deteriorated & got much steeper. We also started passing through afro-montane forest. The lodge was set in the forest & looked delightful. We quickly settled in to our chalet within the forest & very comfortable it was too!


The approach to the lodge.

The reception, bar & restaurant area.

Our chalet from the outside, set deep in the forest.

Our chalet which was very nice indeed.


Birding along the access road 
was very productive.

Mountain Wagtail habitat.

Looking for it!

Mountain Wagtail

Birding along the access road.

These are the lake view chalets.

I went for a short walk along the access road recording Lemon Dove; Purple crested Lourie; Trumpeter Hornbill; Red chested Cuckoo; Golden tailed Woodpecker; both Red capped & Chorister Robin Chats & a lovely Mountain Wagtail. It is difficult to obtain photos birding the forest as everything is against you. We then enjoyed a lovely dinner by the side of the river. 

A beautiful mountain stream
running through the forest.

Mountain Wagtail


Narina Trogon



I had a bad night & consequently woke up late on the morning of the 17th November. We got organized a set out to bird the access road. It proved to be a good mornings birding. We managed 23 species including a lovely Narina Trogon. After an outstanding outdoor breakfast we retired to the chalet & I enjoyed a three hour sleep! 

Surprising to see Giraffe 
in this habitat.

Square tailed Drongo

We went birding again in the afternoon but overcast conditions & light rain brought us back to the lodge early. African Emerald Cuckoo gave us the run around, calling all around us but devilishly difficult to spot.

On the nest.

Dark backed Weaver


We were up at the crack of dawn on 18th November. I enjoyed a good night rest & was feeling good for the mornings birding. We spent quite a while seeking out a singing Eastern Nicator, but despite our best efforts it remained hidden. We then bumped into Gavin & his wife who were birding. They own the farm where the lodge is situated (but not the lodge). They had spotted a pair of Dark backed Weavers, which were hanging around a nest. We also heard Scaly throated Honeyguide but failed to see it. He proved to be a mine of useful information on the birds found here & gave us a couple of tips for the afternoon. 

Wonderful highland grasslands.

The Amarok made short work of the steep hills.

A great hiking & birding area.

Steppe Buzzard

In the afternoon we drove up into the hills amid spectacular scenery. It really is a beautiful  farm & very fortunate to have Gavin & his wife as custodians for all these scarce & increasingly threatened habitats. Birds were scarce but we did see our first Steppe Buzzard of the summer & an out of place Red billed Oxpecker! Plain backed Pipit & Wailing Cisticolas were also recorded. On the way down, we managed to locate a Striped Pipit, which is always a scarce species.

Nyala

I had a bad night, so we didn't arise until 7 am in the morning of 19th November. We decided to walk the forest closer to the security gate around 4kms further down the hill than the lodge. It was a beautiful morning & we both enjoyed the walk seeing 3 Red Duiker & a Nyala. We managed to entice in a Grey Cuckooshrike & Delana picked up several Purple banded Sunbirds high in the canopy. Both new for our year lists. Otherwise it was more of the same forest species. 

Cape White-eye



In the afternoon we drove a little further down past the security gate. A good variety of birds were seen, but nothing new for the year list.

We packed up early on 20th November & drove home after doing a few chores. It had been a wonderful short stay, with some good afro-montane forest birding. We would definitely visit again.