Thursday, 11 November 2021

On the Kwando River

The main road goes straight through 
this national park.

As soon as you enter the park you are into 
good habitat again.

Thousands of people live inside the national park.
Here people & wildlife live closely together.

Black-chested Snake Eagle

We left Shamvura late morning on 8th November heading for Dan Stephen's campsite on the banks of the Kwando River. It is a 310 kms haul along the B8. Even though it is tarred, it is slow going with roadworks, slow moving traffic etc. Filled up with  fuel & a bit of shopping in Divundu along the way. Arrived at Mashi Campsite late afternoon. 

The view from our campsite, looking into
 the national park.

There is a great feeling of wilderness here.


Our campsite, the structure is our dining room.

Setting up camp.

The dining room also is a make-shift office
 on occasions!

Our tent is pitched right next door.

A pair of Golden tailed Woodpeckers

 
Always in & around the camp.


Yellow-bellied Greenbul

Common & confiding around camp.

Pretty tame!

Hartlaub's Babbler

Common in camp, in the riverside vegetation.


Swamp Boubou

Sunset from the camp.

Camping just isn't the same without fairy lights!

We had been here two years ago & really liked the place. Each campsite overlooks the floodplain & the Kwando River looking across into Bwabwata National Park. This time we were in campsite 2, with excellent, expansive views & good birding from the camp itself. This is Africa in the raw! Lions, Hippos & Hyena all close by in an unfenced camp. In this portion of the Caprivi Strip human population density is high, so the tinkling of cow bells is never too far away. Humans & wildlife live here in a kind of uneasy truce & sometimes conflicts occur. However, there is nothing quite like cooking food over an open fire, enjoying a drink & listening to Lions roaring, knowing there is no barrier between you & them. This is exactly what happened on our first night. 


We decided to spend all day in camp on the 9th November. Sometimes it is nice just to stay put & relax. We did an early morning birdwatch from the camp itself which was quite rewarding: 

Great Egret


Collared Pratincole

Blacksmith Lapwing


Coppery-tailed Coucals are in the floodplain & associated reedbeds, while White-browed Coucals are in the riverine woodland at the edge of the floodplain. While Senegal Coucals are in the dry woodland patches inland. here it is possible to see all three species within around 500 m. Collared Pratincoles were over the floodplain; lots of Purple Herons around; an adult male Amur Falcon flew over, as did a Lanner later on; Meyer's Parrots; Swamp Boubou & Hartlaub's Babbler are all common in camp. Both Holub's Golden Weaver & Southern Brown throated Weavers were in the reedbeds.

Being retired is not all one long holiday you know!


Then it was time to do the laundry & other camp chores! In the evening we spent a couple of hours at the sundowner spot along the river. We saw 60 species including: Rufous bellied Heron; 55 Collared Pratincole; a good variety of Herons & Egrets including 14 Purple Herons; Chirping & Zitting Cisticolas; Banded Martin; Swamp Boubou; both Red billed & Brown Firefinches. 


We also enjoyed a glorious sunset!


Up early on 10th November, sat in my camp chair with my coffee & watched the day unfold. It really was a brilliant setting. unfortunately I missed the moment! Two Spot-necked Otters swam across the river & into the reeds. Good views through the binoculars, but failed to get a shot! Gutted! This is only my second sighting of this species.

Birding was good though, with 66 species: 

Collared Pratincole


African Crake calling; Rufous bellied Heron; 6 Squacco Heron; 50+ Collared Pratincole; 18 Woolly-necked Stork; White-headed, White-backed & Hooded Vultures; Black-chested Snake- Eagle, Gabar Goshawk; Broad-billed Roller; Chirping Cisticola & Fan-tailed Widowbird.

Delana & Issak

The channel as we set off.

But it soon gets wider.


Cape Buffalo

Quite common along the river.


Yellow billed Oxpeckers

As we got closer, it panicked into the river.

Magnificent male Sable

Red Lechwe

Common on these floodplains,
 but a range restricted species.


Female & young.


In the afternoon we went on a boat trip down the Kwando River toward Horseshoe Bend in the national park. Issak proved to be both a competent boatman & an engaging & knowledgeable companion. We were the only people on the boat, it was stable & very quiet so we could sneak up to birds quite well without alarming them.

We slowly meandered our way through the channels towards Horsehoe Bend inside the national park. Luckily one can enjoy game viewing in this manner without having to pay park fees! Surely watching game & birding by boast is the best way of enjoying wildlife?

Red Lechwe

Female

Siatunga: a poor photo, but this is a tough species
 to get shots of!

Hippo


Among the abundant Red Lechwe we spotted a shy female Siatunga, which as usual, just melted away at the first glance. We also got nice & close to a small herd of ten Cape Buffalo. In the distance we saw a fine male Sable & other species included Impala; Kudu; Warthog & Baboons. As well as a couple of pods of Hippo!

Lesser Jacana


Wonderful to get so close to this shy, scarce species.



Sensational!

African Jacana

We managed to see a lovely Lesser Jacana on the lily pads of the lagoon. Also present were ten very mobile African Pygmy Geese, which manage to elude the camera.

Blue-cheeked Bee-eater

I always find it amazing that this species breeds
 in arid zones & winters in wetlands.


Fantastic birds!

Little Bee-eater


Chirping Cisticola





Singing

We also get close to Chirping Cisticola in the reedbeds, a species which we don't often observe. Three Long-toed Lapwings proved to be shy & distant, along with both Blacksmith & African Wattled Lapwings & 130+ Collared Pratincoles.

Banded Martin

Wire tailed Swallow


Barn Swallow


Plain Martin




Hirundines were represented by 20+ Banded Martins; Hundreds of Barn Swallow, Wire-tailed Swallow & Plain-throated Martins.

Leopard

We watched this male Leopard
 for around 25 minutes.

He was totally unconcerned by our presence


It was a real privilege so get so close & 
the animal not being concerned.


Eventually it slowly walked away.

Then it came back!

On our return we spotted a beautiful male Leopard resting by the side of a bush on the riverside. We spent quite sometime with him & he was very relaxed in our presence. The highlight of the afternoon.

The view to the side of the campsite.

View from the other side.

In front of the camp looking into the national park.
There is a real sense of wilderness here.


The next morning I was up early & looking over the marshes, river & floodplain on 11th November. Delana joined me later. Early doors saw a European Hobby hunting & later, three Lesser Kestrels. In the next three hours were recorded 75 species including: Slaty Egret; Rufous bellied Heron; 350+ European Swift; African Snipe; 50+ Collared Pratincole; Lappet-faced Vulture & Brown Firefinch. The highlight was a Red-headed Quelea sat atop of a bush in the marshes. We both obtained good scope views of this hard to see species. 

This is a fabulous way to spend the day!

Sitatunga

We finally got some good views 
of this secretive species!

Female.


One of the great benefits of being on a boat 
is that most animals are unafraid.

It was nice to spend time with this female.

Pied Kingfisher

We were up before dawn on 12th November to board our boat for another excursion down the Kwando River. We again set course for Horseshoe Lagoon in the national park. Our first notable sighting was a young male Sitatunga which unbelievably did not bolt straight into the swamps! It gave us great views but the light was terrible for photography. A little further along the channel we came across a female. I have been wanting to photograph this species for a long time now but it had always eluded me. So pleased with these shots.

Woolly-necked Stork

Great Egret


Egyptian Goose

Long-toed Lapwing

Red-billed Francolins.

African Green Pigeon

Collared Pratincole


c140 Collared Pratincoles were on the floodplain along with Long-toed Lapwing & other common wetland species. 

Cape Buffalo

This bull took an interest in us!
Pleased to be in a boat!

Common Reedbuck

Male

Female

This is quite a shy species & can be difficult
 to photograph.


A nice close Croc!

Marabou Stork

African Fish Eagle


The habitat of the Pygmy Geese

African Pygmy Goose

The best i could do. They were fast & flighty!

Had to make do with this species today!
Couldn't find the Lesser Jacana.

African Wattled Lapwing


These birds were displaying & getting excited!

A nice herd of Common Reedbuck were seen & the African Pygmy Geese were still present. It was a lovely morning out & we returned around 9 am for breakfast in camp. We spent the rest of the day in camp & birded around camp late afternoon/evening. 

Till the next time!
We will be back!


We had an early start on 13th November as we had to get our PCR test done before 1pm, so we could cross into Botswana next week. It had been a lovely stay here & we were reluctant to leave. Birding from th camp was excellent, as was the feel of wilderness all around.

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