We drove to Cape Town on 17th February & stayed in the Hotel Verde which was as close to the airport as one could possible be! We booked this hotel because off its green credentials (it has won many environmental awards). It did not disappoint, as it proved to be an excellent place to stay. The garden was a delight, complete with green (eco) swimming pool. Everything natural, no chemicals used & it looked fantastic!
The fabulous eco-swimming pool!
However, there was one thing on my mind. We had just collected my new Swarovski telescope, complete with new tripod & professional head. I was dying to use it, but just had to wait a while longer. You know the little boy on Christmas Eve who can see his present under the tree, but has been told he cannot open it until the following morning! Well that was me!
The goodies!
The next morning we flew to Johannesburg & eventually on to Vilancolous in Mozambique. My South African visa was about to expire, so I had to leave the country. Delana had been here before, but it was all new territory for me. It wasn't a birding trip as such, just a break in the sun, with a bit of snorkeling & perhaps some local birding around the town. After a bit of thought, we had chosen this destination because we could get there by air from Cape Town & it was a pleasant tourist town, which promised some good snorkeling for Delana. It had been an age since she had been in the ocean & she was keen to have a short break, sun, sea & sand!
The Casa Cabanas Resort.
Tiny & rustic, but very nice.
The view from our cabana.
We were right on the beach!
Local food: crab curry with matapa.
It was delicious!
We arrived tired in the late afternoon on the 18th February, so all we did was unpack, enjoy a nice meal on the beach & have an early night. The sun rises early in Mozambique & we were facing east, so we too were up early on 19th!
Me with my new toy!
The scope is pretty awesome.
I enjoyed some great close up views
of waders.
Common Greenshank
Wintering in good numbers along the beach here.
Curlew Sandpiper
Some individuals were already coming into
summer plumage.
Present in good numbers on the beach.
Some birds were still in winter plumage,
but just beginning to change.
Ruddy Turnstone
here feeding on the mudflats & soft sand.
Not a rock in sight!
Sanderling
All were still in full winter plumage.
White fronted Plover (adult).
I took the telescope down to the beach (a mere few meters from our cabana) & started to look around with my brand new toy! It was a lovely morning & there were quite a few waders feeding on the beach.
A normal pose for Delana!
Lesser Honeyguide was a surprise visitor
to the garden.
African Paradise Flycatcher
An ever present in the garden.
Red billed Firefinch
The rest of the day was spent relaxing in & around our cabana. I think the both of us needed some rest & some time off.
Looking across the bay towards the hotel.
Fishing dominates everything here.
They are still building dhows in the
traditional manner here.
The one that never got built!
When Delana first visited Vilancolus in 2000, this dhow was slowly being built. But I guess it never made it, as it is still in the same place all these years later! Definitely not sea worthy now!
The Donna Ana Hotel
As the heat started to dissipate in late afternoon, we decided to walk around the bay in he direction of the distant hotel. It was a nice walk, enabling us to get a feel for local life here & the cocktails were superb!
Our little home from home!
A closer look at the restaurant.
Looking south along the beach.
Yellow billed Kites were constantly
patrolling the beaches.
They will be migrating back north soon.
Delana did a little snorkeling from the beach.
One of the small beach bars
along the coast.
Sadly we were the only guests!
Madagascar (Olive) Bee-eater
Quite common in the town.
The next few days were a mixture of birding around the small garden, walking along the beaches & checking out the waders along the shore. With plenty of down time & eating & drinking. It was a very relaxing stay & our little cabana was excellent in every respect.
Our transport for the next four days,
a traditional wooden dhow.
This is where we were going!
The islands.
We were going for the underwater delights!
On the 23rd February we were picked up by dhow by the crew from Sailaway. We had booked a four day, three night package sailing around the islands in the nearby national park. All our luggage was picked up by car & taken to the camp where we would be spending the nights.
We are off! leaving the mainland behind!
Making popcorn on an
open fire, next to a
tank of gasoline!
What could possibly go wrong?
Indo-Pacific Humpbacked Dolphin
They gave good, prolonged views.
The wonderful beach.
There is an Osprey somewhere in that bush!
These giant crabs were very numerous &
entertaining on the beach.
Our boat is the one on the left!
Lunch is served aboard!
The food was excellent.
Our first day was to the Ilha de Magaruque. We used a combination of engine & sail to get out there. At first it was a little rough, but once closer to the island with the sail up it was great to be on the water.
We did a short walk over a small
section of the island.
This part of the island is covered in sand dunes.
There were a few pairs of Little Egrets nesting
in the middle of the island.
At least two pairs of Grey Heron
were also breeding.
Grey Heron
Long tailed Cormorant
Whimbrel
The reef at low tide.
Problematic Terns!
Our tent for the next three nights.
It was very comfortable & in a great location.
Back on the mainland, enjoying a sundowner.
The view! It is easy to like Mozambique!
Having a drink with
Bruce & Sheila!
Delana enjoying the cruise.
Two Mile Reef
Delana snorkelling.
On 24th February we again headed out, this time to Bazaruto Island & then Delana did a snorkel at Two Mile Reef.
Unbelievably there is a huge freshwater lake
on this island!
Red Duiker
Really common on the
island.
It just shows you what protection can do.
Scarce on the mainland, due to hunting.
Olive Bee-eater
Quite a common & widespread species
in this part of Mozambique.
On 25th February we again headed out, this time to Benguela Island. We walked about 6kms to the freshwater lake in the hope of seeing Nile Crocodiles. We didn't see any but it was a good walk, but the heat built up & made walking back very tiring. We ended the walk with a nice dip in the sea.
Isle de Margarque.
On 26th February we sailed back to Margarque Island, but this time visiting the extreme southern spit. it was fantastic sailing weather & we managed to get the dhow in quite close inside a bay where hundreds of shorebirds were present including 13 Eurasian Oystercatchers, which is a pretty high number for Mozambique.
Our little home, right on the beach.
Birding was pretty good from the balcony.
We had a friend whenever we went for a walk!
Little Egret
Whimbrel
Bar tailed Godwit
In good numbers on these flats,
up to 90 birds present.
Common Greenshank
Terek Sandpiper
At least four of these charismatic waders
were on the beach.
Always great to see them.
Curlew Sandpiper
Coming into summer plumage
For the rest of our stay in Vilancolos we moved back into town & stayed at a local place called Vilancool. They were very pleased to see us, as we were yet again the only guests. It was situated right on the beach on the soutthern side of town. Lot of waders were in evidence & birding from the chalet was good. it was a very relaxing place & we didn't do a great deal of anything!
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