Friday, 6 July 2012

The road to Yushu

It was almost a pleasure, to rise from my bed in the pitch dark, pack up & leave. The dogs had been magnificent, managing to bark continously for the whole night! Not much sleep, a little tired, but lets get on the road. Today is a travel day, we have to drive to Yushu (the place that was destroyed by the earthquake, a few years ago - 3,000 dead).

Ever changing & totally fascinating skies
Typical landscape that we travelled through.

Herds of grazing Yaks were common.
Tibetan Wild Ass were also seen
 in good numbers today.
A great animal, in a great setting!

The unusual looking, Tibetan Gazelle


Tibetan Gazelle were also present in small herds, along the way. They seem to graze on the meagrest of pasture, often just tiny lichens, on patches of rock.

At most high passes, there are prayer flags -
these have been blown down by the wind.
The bleak & forbidding pass

The road to Yushu!
The main road is in the centre of the photo!
Brandt's Mountain Finch is often one of the
 very few species as this altitude.
We will drive through the plateau region, dotted with large marshes, cross a very high, bleak pass and then its all downhill to Yushu. The town is a bit lower than where we have been the last few days, so we should sleep a little easier.
We drive for over two hours and then stop. The surroundings are plateau grasslands, but with lakes and marshes dotted around. We spot a distant Tibetan Fox.
The weird, but wonderful Tibetan Fox.
Black necked Crane
A total of 16 Cranes were seen today.
Then a great pair of Black-necked Cranes. Lots of Bar-headed Geese & Ruddy Shelduck, the former with goslings. It feels quite strange seeing Common Terns flying over, this far from the coast. This race is slighlty different from the ones we are used to seeing.

Common Tern


Bar-headed Geese
Ruddy Shelduck
Saker
Upland Buzzard in its upland setting.
Upland Buzzard
This dry stone wall cairn, was errected
by the local people, for the buzzards to nest on!
A Saker sits on a telegraph post. Upland Buzzards are common along the way. The authorities have actually errected nesting posts for them, as formerly they were breeding on pylons and causing a bit of a headache. The buzzards collect any kind of rubbish, to adorn their nests. They appear to be thriving.
Hume's Groundpecker
 Hume's Groundpeckers are seen wherever we stop, they always seem to be on the go, a real busy bird!The other Hume's, this time the Short-toed Lark is also common on these grasslands.
Hume's Short-toed Lark
As you loose altitude,
there is much more vegetation.
Birding in sunshine - an absolute pleasure!
The rare White-lipped Deer
After crossing the pass, we descend rapidly and soon see small amounts of vegetation on the sides of the mountains. These stunted, dense bushes prove to be home to a wide variety of species. The endemic White-browed Tit is easily seen. Alpine Leaf Warblers share their home. Also our first Kessler's Thrushes are noted. What a great bird! Very similar to our own Ring Ouzel in both stature and behaviour. A confiding Citrine Wagtail gives us great views & Brown Accentors are singing from the hillsides.

The endemic, White-browed Tit.
Kessler's Thrush
Citrine Wagtail
Alpine Leaf Warbler
Despite all these great species, Jesper is keen to move on & we continue to Yushu. We are now rapidly loosing altitude and around 35 kms from the town, Pete spots an Ibisbill on the river. We rapidly stop and pile out of the vehicles. For the next hour we are treated to some great birding. in the small grove of Poplar trees migrants are everywhere. There are over 30+ Common Cuckoos, Common Rosefinch and a couple of Eastern Rock Buntings. Tibetan Partridges are also seen, but unfortunately not photographed.

A poor photograph of a great bird!
This little grove of Poplar trees,
was full of migrants.

Eastern Rock Bunting
Brown Accentor
It is late when we arrive at the hotel. Then it starts to rain, quite hard. After a good meal we all retire for the night, as we have a big day in the morning.

Wednesday, 4 July 2012

The great Swift debate!

I have just returned from a trip to western China, where I saw several hundred Common Swifts of the eastern pekinensis race. This was the first time I have knowingly observed this race of Common Swift and I managed to obtain quite a few photographs.

Common Swift Apus apus taken in the UK.

Common Swift Apus pekenensis
taken in western China.
Not that much difference between the races shown here! But there are small differences, which I will discuss later. Much of the literature on identification, seems to follow a set pattern, which may not be borne out by reality.
I am particularly interested in Common/Pallid Swift identification, as I live in the UAE, where Pallid Swift is common and Common Swift is an irregular spring & autumn migrant (but see my later note). To add to my interest, I have also spent a considerable period of time birding in Southern Africa, in particular in Zimbabwe and South Africa. Swift identification is not easy under any circumstances and my recent experience of pekinensis in China has lead me to revise some of my opinions. But let us step back a little and discuss the known distributions and migrations/movements of these two species:

Common Swift

Common Swift has two recognised races:
Apus apus apus & Apus apus pekinensis

A. a. apus has a breeding range extending from the western Palearctic, east to Lake Baikal. This is much further east than what is normally realised!
If this statement is correct, then the nominate race breeding in eastern Russia, must migrate SSW over the borders of Mongolia/Kazakhstan, through Afghanistan, the Middle East & south into Africa. This race winters from central Africa, eastwards & southwards down to Mozambique & eastern South Africa.
The nominate race is common throughout its known range. In many countries it is expanding its range & numbers greatly, by utilising human habitations. Therefore, huge numbers must overfly the UAE & other Middle Eastern States on both spring & autumn migrations.

A. a. pekinensis has a breeding range from Iran, east to Mongolia and northern China. Jesper Hornslov (pers comm) is a long time resident in China, he states that he has never seen the nominate race in China. Certainly, he believes that all the Common Swifts I photographed in China were pekinensis. I agree with his opinion.
This race also migrates south west into Africa. The center of its winter distribution being south west south Africa, Namibia & Botswana. To get there, considerble numbers must fly over the Middle East on their migrations.

Pallid Swift

Pallid Swift currently has three recognised races (which has not always been the case):

Apus pallidus brehmorum; A. p. illyricus and A. p. pallidus.

A. p. brehmorum is found from Portugal east to Turkey & along the North African coast. The known wintering range encompasses the Sahel.

A. p. illyricus breeding range is in countries bordering the Adriatic Sea. It winters in the Sahel.

A. p. pallidus has a more southerly breeding range, from the western Sahara, through the Middle East to coastal Pakistan. There is localised wintering in the Middle East and coastal western Pakistan. However, it is thought that most birds, winter in the Sahel.

The Swift situation in the UAE.

The UAE is a small country, and what I have to say here, may come as a surprise to many readers. There appears to be two distinct populations of Pallid Swift here:
 In the northern Emirates, including Dubai, Pallid Swift is a resident breeding bird. They breed in colonies, (which are sometimes large) on cliff faces in the mountains, which is their natural home. However, it is also a common breeding bird on tall buildings within cities, such as Dubai & Sharjah. The number of breeding pairs must be in the order of 5-10,000, although I know of no actual census that has been undertaken.
In Abu Dhabi Emirate, which is approximately 60% of the entire country, this species is a winter breeding bird. Arriving in October/November and departing in early June. This appears to be true in both the Hajar Mountains around Al Ain and much further west in breeding colonies such as the one on Jebel Dhanna. There are reasonable numbers breeding on tall buildings in Abu Dhabi City, such as the ADNOC complex of buildings along the corniche. This species also breeds on offshore islands, which have cliffs and interior mountains and smaller numbers also breed on low-lying cliffs along the western coastline. Sometimes these cliffs are only 15-20 m high, but provide enough cracks & crannies for a colony to survive here. All of these colonies are seasonal breeders and completely absent in the hot summer months.
It would appear that we have two distinct populations here. I find this to be rather surprising, as the areas concerned are only around 160 kms apart at their closest points. This is a very small distance to have two distinct populations, but records show, this appears to be the case.

The Common Swift is a spring and autumn passage migrant in varying numbers, although these numbers are usually small. If one looks at a map of Africa, Europe and Asia one sees that this species should be a much commoner migrant than it actually is. The scarcity of records could be because of the great height at which this species migrates, often only coming lower, (where it may be seen), under certain weather conditions, like thunderstorms, which are rare here in the UAE. Intriguingly, I have also a handful of winter records of this species. Now this is crazy! This species should be nowhere near the UAE in winter. The readers first conclusion would be that I am mistaken in my identification and that the birds in question, are actually Pallid Swifts which just look dark, in certain changing lights. However, I am absolutely convinced that I am correct in my identification.
The Swift situation in the Middle East
Pallid Swift is a common winter breeder to the mountains of northern Oman; most records being from December to April. Slightly further north, it appears to be a summer breeding migrant in places like coastal & mountainous Iran. With a small number being resident.
Common Swift is a fairly common passage migrant in Oman, with records in every month! The peak is spring passage, from February to April. I find the records in every month to be unbelievable! It is a passage migrant through Iran.
I have no doubt at all, that confusion between these two species exists in the Middle East, which clouds the true pattern of occurrence.
How to identify Common and Pallid Swifts?
Basically, in some circumstances it is very difficult and maybe even impossible, without obtaining specimens. However, in most circumstances, providing care is taken, it is quite possible.
Common Swift is a large, rakish swift. The wings are long & scythe-shaped. Wing tips quite pointed. Body is somewhat less torpedo-like, than Pallid Swift, with a narrow vent/rump area, a longish tail with a deep fork.
Common Swift taken in the UK.

Pallid Swift is generally fatter & more barrel chested, than the above species. The wing tips are slightly less pointed than in Common Swift, which makes them appear to be less rakish. The vent/rumps area is thicker and the tail fork slightly shallower.
Pallid Swift taken in Spain.
Common Swift of the nominate race, is blackish. The upperparts often appear to be uniform, being just a touch lighter, on the inner wing. The head appears very dark, with a small, restricted (can be difficult to see) white throat. The underparts in perfect light, are very slightly scaled, but in many situations, look uniform sooty black. The vent is very dark, only in certain lights, can you see any form of scaling. However, as the season progresses, from spring to autumn, birds exhibit a more worn, brownish appearance.
The problems really arise with the plumage pattern of the more eastern race, pekinensis.










I believe all of the above photographs taken at Koko Nor, China are of the pekinensis race of Common Swift. When you look at the photos collectively, the first thing you notice, is how black the general plumage is. This appears to somewhat contradict, the conventional wisdom & the literature on this subject.
A closer inspection, reveals the large pale forehead and matching white throat patch. The area around the eye looks like a black, isolated socket. Even the black bill can be clearly seen contrasting with the surrounding paleness. The white/pale throat patch is extensive and very distinctive. When was the last time you noticed the colour of the bill of a Common Swift of the nominate race?
The structure of these birds is pure Common Swift ie narrow vent/rump, long deeply forked tail; long rakish pointed wings etc. However, the general plumage is somewhat reminiscent of the African Black Swift ( a species I know very well). There is a very marked contrast on the upperwing between the blacker primaries and the much paler secondaries. You don't see this to this extent on the nominate race (in fact this is one of the features used to identify Common Swift from the African Black Swift). The underwing pattern is very striking indeed! The contrast between the black underwing coverts and the more silvery rest of the underwing is quite extraordinary! Look how extensive the silver/pale area is, right up to the tips of the primaries. Also note, the slightly more greyer tones to the vent area, with distinct pale scaling visible on most photos.

These Swifts photographed, were just a few of several hundred, which appeared to be migrating, even further north than Xingang Province. They were feeding low down , then moving on quickly, being replaced by another wave of birds, minutes later. You could actually see the birds departing north, after feeding around the lake & marshes.
Now, why do I think these birds are of the pekinensis race? Well the first thing is they are very distinct looking from the nominate race and totally different from what I was lead to be believe by reading the literarure. They are much blacker & yet at the same time much more contrasting! They are also much less-like Pallid Swift than I was lead to believe.
These individuals match very closely with my winter records of Common Swift in the UAE. I put in my field notes, how black the birds were, and yet noticeably scaled on the underparts and slightly scaled on the upperparts. I also noted the very contrasting underwing pattern. Having seen these birds in China, I now believe my winter records of Common Swift were infact, pekinensis race. I believe that all of my spring & autumn records of Common Swift were of the nominate race. All of them look exactly like the birds I am familiar with in western Europe and the wintering birds on the highveld in Zimbabwe & South Africa.


Tuesday, 3 July 2012

Into the cold!

It is dark and very cold, again! We are all in the vehicles travelling to a high pass, in the hope of seeing one of the very special birds of this region- Roborovski's Rosefinch. It is rare, highly localised, difficult to find and lives very high, in inhospitable mountains. It sounds like just my kind of bird then!

The beginning - it got worse than this later!

Reluctantly, we start our hike. It is very cold, the slanting wind, dotted with sleet and snow. There is quite a bit of newly fallen snow around, but as the sun hasn't yet come up, everywhere looks dark and forboding. Not nice at all! I pull my hat further down over my ears, my eyes become slits against the sleet and snow and I start walking. It seems to me that all walks here, begin with uphill & then continue with more uphill! How come we never seem to walk downhill? I plod on, my breathing getting harder with every step. Then a shout and a rosefinch is spotted. It is a stunning adult male! The only problem is, it is down in the valley bottom. We will loose all the height we have gained and then have to come back up again! I walk down hill, closer to the bird. It is shuffling around among the rocks, a bit of bright colour, among the greys.

The great prize!
Roborovski's Rosefinch.

I take off my gloves to handle my camera. I really wish I hadn't done that! My fingers are numb and the camera body & lens make matters worse. I click away, consious that at any moment my finger might stick to the metal shutter. This happened to me a long time ago in wintery Sweden - very painful when your blood starts circulating again! I shuffle closer and closer, keeping low to the ground. I am starting to mimic a rosefinch! We all get our fill of the bird and I stand up, or rather try and stand up! I am thirsty at this altitude and I reach for my water bottle. One little problem is that it has frozen! I move it inside my rucksack, I just have to wait.
Birding the heights!


Sometimes, it all gets too much for some!

We climb up out of the valley- again! We gain more height and walk along a ridge. The sun is now up, playing its rays across the landscape. I begin to warm up. I clamber up on a pile of rocks, time for a bit of breakfast. Eagerly, I reach for my piece of chocolate. I can't eat it yet, it is frozen! I place it inside one of my gloves. As I wait, I look around. The landscape is one of brutal beauty, it is a cruel land up here. A land right on the edge, where humans can exist, but not much more. I remind myself that this is the middle of summer!
Both Blue Sheep and Tibetan Gazelle are seen distantly, but no sign of course, of their major predator- the almost mythical, Snow Leopard! I pick up a Tibetan Gazelle horn from the ridge.
Tibetan Gazelle - keeping their distance!
This species has a very strange way of running!

Himalayan Marmot - common in the highlands.
Plateau Pikka.
A Himalayan Marmot pokes its head out of its burrow, it must be time to get up! Plateau Pikkas scamper around their holes, sometimes squeaking in alarm. I remember my piece of chocholate, it is still like a brick but I begin to suck! A Common Cuckoo calls across the valley, they are even up here! A brown rock flies and transforms itself into a young Little Owl. It blinks and bobs its head at me.
A young Little Owl

Flashes of colour among the boulders, turn out to be Black & Guldenstadt's Redstarts.
Guldenstadt's Redstart.

 A couple of Robin Accentors start to sing.

Robin Accentor

I commence my walk again and as I get warmer, I start to notice the life going on all around me. Three species of snowfinch dot the landscape, each one in a slightly different ecological role. Henri's (White-winged) on boulders in small areas of wet ground:
Henri's, (White-winged) Snowfinch.
White-rumped Snowfinch, closely associated
with Pikka colonies.
White-rumped is among the Pikka colonies, often using their holes and disappearing underground at the slightest sign of danger and the Rufous necked seems to be a generalist and is found everywhere.

Rufous-necked Snowfinch

 We scan the rocks on the highest ridges for Tibetan Snowcock, but without success. Brandt's and Plain Mountain Finches grovel among the patches of snow. After a hike of around five or six hours, we circle around and return to base at the pass. The sun is shining and everything looks so different to the early morning.
Plain Mountain Finch
Tibetan Wild Ass (Kiang).

We drive slightly lower, to a plateau area, dotted with small marshes. I see my first Kiangs (Tibetan Wild Ass) in the distance. Whow! An animal I have always wanted to see - how do they survive the winters up here? Amazing!

A male Spotted Great Rosefinch is seen, together with it drabber mate. We all get good, prolonged views.
Spotted Great Rosefinch

It is now time to head back to Wenquien. Has it improved? I am afraid not. But in the yard is a Spotted Great Rosefinch! After all that effort finding them, there is one in the village!


A posse of semi-wild dogs great our arrival with vigorous barking, which goes on into the night. Are these boards on the bed getting softer? No I don't think so! I awake, because of a call of nature. It is very dark and very cold. I have to brave the yard, to get to the toilets. My torch beam confirms that not everyone walks that far!