Wednesday 27 September 2023

A mini honeymoon in Mozambique

My tourist visa expired on 19th September, so I had to leave the country. My medical visa (which I have paid for) still hasn't come through, so I had no option but to leave the country. Delana picked Mozambique as our easiest option, so on the morning of 19th we left Sabie Park & drove to the nearest border just east of Komatipoort. It was an easy drive until we got to 15 kms before the border, then we hit the trucks! Mile upon mile of them waiting to cross the border. I had never seen anything like it but Delana was expecting it. 


The border crossing was as usual a little taxing & chaotic but after an hour or so we were through! The road to Maputo has been improved immensely since we last travelled along it & we made rapid progress until we hit the newly opened ring road around the city. 60 kms speed limit all the way & plenty of Mozambican speed cops to enforce the limit!

Our room, which was just beautiful!

Our separate kitchen, which was well appointed.

Our little plunge pool.

The view!

However, by 5pm we made it to our destination for the next few days. It was a small, but very nice spot on the Macaneta Peninsula close to the Komati River, just north of Maputo. It was the Roelieze Lodge & was perfectly situated on a beautiful piece of coastline with a great sandy beach. On the way to the lodge, we saw a huge flock (around 230) Pelicans over the nearby wetland. I was driving without binoculars, but assumed that they were Pink-backed Pelicans.

Welcome to Mozambique!

We settled in quickly & enjoyed a nice meal & an early night. 

I had just received my fourth round of chemotherapy at the hospital, so wasn't feeling all that great. I expected to be ill for most of this short trip (based on previous experience). So I didn't bring my camera with me, as I thought that I wouldn't be well enough to hold it steady. This prove to be a big mistake, as I was better than I thought I would be & I missed photographing some wonderful scarce species like Magpie Manakin! 

Our chalet is the one on the right.

I was feeling better today, 
(although still with chronic fatigue), 
so took a little walk along the beach.

There was a basic little restaurant & bar on site,
which was quite fun. Fish of course was the specialty!

Woke up to the sounds of the Indian Ocean on 20th September. We enjoyed a lazy time around the lodge, with a little birding in the grounds. Best species were: Both Lesser Crested & Caspian Terns; Brown hooded Kingfisher; Sombre Bulbul (common); Black-crowned Tchagra & Yellow fronted Canary. Walking along the beach was a bit of a milestone for me, as I hadn't been able to walk more than 50 m. for a few months now. So I was pleased with my progress. 

Upon waking on 21st September I was feeling a little better, so did a more comprehensive coverage of the lodge gardens: African Green Pigeon; Red-eyed Dove; Hoopoe; 7 Black-bellied Starling & both Collared & Mouse- colored Sunbirds. 

Macaneta Wetlands with the Komati River.

This is a vast area to explore & looks fabulous.

Later in the morning we enjoyed a drive through the nearby wetlands. This was a casual bit of birding & we never left the car. However, it proved to be quite interesting with some uncommon to rare species recorded: Burchell's Coucal (common); 3 Collared Pratincole; 3 Rufous-winged Cisticola (giving great views! Where was my camera?); 5 Lesser Swamp Warbler; 2 Black Sawing; 4 Fan-tailed Widowbirds & 2 African Pipits. It was an excellent little drive through a wonderful area. WE decided to drive a few kilometers further & it proved to be a wise move: Black-chested Eagle; African Marsh Harrier; both Rufous-winged 7 Zitting Cisticolas were common; Brown-throated Weaver; plenty of Fan-tailed Widowbirds & a Yellow-throated Longclaw. 

We of of the day in & around the lodge. It was very relaxing & we recorded the following species: Yellow-rumped Tinkerbird; Yellow-breasted Aplais; Little Bee-eater; Mouse-colored Sunbird; Brown-throated Weaver & Green-winged Pytilia. 

Did a little sea watching in the evening, 
but it wasn't very productive.

Sunset from the chalet.

On the 22nd September we visited the local resort next to the Komati River & we found three Magpie Manakins in the grounds giving fantastic views! I could have got amazing photos of them! What an opportunity missed!

I am in the line somewhere!

There I am!

It was then time to pack up & drive to the border. No problems until we hit the border post where we saw the queues! It was unbelievable & it took us nearly two hours to cross on the South African side. Once we crossed, it was an easy drive back to Sabie Park. It had been a nice little trip & most of the credit should go to Delana, as she picked out the place to stay. 






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